I'll begin with the endless journey from JFK to Narita Airport in Tokyo. On the plane, I watched four movies; beginning with Angels and Demons, followed by The Proposal, the new Terminator, and Night at the Museum 2! Those really were the best choices from the available films. So that took 8 hours of my 14 hour flight. I also pooed once, ate twice, and slept a little. To digress for a minute, the toilet on the plane was surprisingly spacious, as was the rest of the cabin, but you should see the toilets in Japan. They have all these little buttons and functions. The toilet seat is heated, it cleans itself, and there are definitely three different ways to shoot toilet water up your butt. The small pleasures in life.
Once in Tokyo, I navigated the intense subway system and found my hostel without getting lost. This is really strange considering I speak zero Japanese, most people know little to no English, and 70% of the subway signs don't even have the English pronunciation of the characters on them. Fortunately, almost everyone is happy to help. Regardless of their knowledge of English, people always shout Japanese at me while making various arm and hand signals when I point to a location on a map. Even better, if I even look like I'm struggling, someone indefinitely makes their way over and offers a helping hand. Just like NYC, right?!
Day one: I went on a walk to the Sensi-ji temple; I entered via the thunder gate (not as cool as it sounds). After walking around the grounds, I went to a little noodle shop for some dinner! An old man tried to help me with the menu, which was in Japanese as well as with the strange ticketing machine. He also tried to convince me to order something that vaguely resembled cow dung. He explained that it would make me big and strong (communication was accomplished by squeezing my forearm, frowning, and making the international symbol for strength with his arms above his head). Everyone in the restaurant laughed. I pushed the green button six from the left, inserted 500 yen, and sat down. To my surprise a giant bowl of udon noodles, some beef and a small salad actually made its way to my seat. In case you're wondering, I did not order the cow poop entrée.
I went to bed at 8:00 pm because I had been awake for more than 24 hours, and I was planning to get up before dawn to visit the Tsukiji Market, the largest fish market in the world (where apparently well over $2,000,000,000 changes hands annually). That's ALOT of spicy tuna roll!
After walking around for a few hours, barely escaping death by small motorcar carrying a giant blue-fin tuna, and helping one guy grab a fish that had jumped out of its bin, I thought that the market--with row upon row of smelly, slimy fish, guts, blood, and fishermen yielding massive death devices (read: machetes, swords, and saws)--had certainly ruined sushi forever. I was wrong. I left the pavilion, walked around the small shops, which border it, and got in line for the freshest fish I have ever eaten. Tuna has never tasted so good at 10:00 in the morning.
Leaving the market, I headed for Ginza--what Lonely Planet calls the Japanese 5th avenue. It was ok. I walked through the Sony building where you can play with virtually every existing product and some prototypes. Next, I made my way to the Imperial Palace gardens in downtown Tokyo. The place was incredible. Zen gardens, huge grass fields, unimaginable biodiversity, and a few ruins make it way better than central park. I found a nice spot, laid down, and took a nap.
Off to Kyoto! I took the bullet train, and arrived in under 2.5 hours. My hostel was conveniently located in Northwest Kyoto, a few minutes from Higashiyama, Gion district, and every major temple or shrine. I spent a day wondering the hills from one temple to the next. I can't even begin to name all of them, but I crossed two of the biggest draws off my list: Kinkaku-ji and Ginkaku-ji (home to the Gold and Silver pavilions). I also visited the Imperial Palace in Kyoto, which was not even half as cool as the one in Tokyo. I tried both shaved ice, strawberry milk flavored, and Takoyaki (thanks for the suggestions, Lia)! Both were incredible. Takoyaki is basically a pastry filled with octopus, and smothered in vegetables and a sauce derived from soy. Mmmm, octopus balls. The food has really been an experience. Given that I cannot read any of the packaging, I just guess from the pictures and try to choose meal appropriate food. Half the time I think I am going to bite into something hearty, and it turns out sweet. It could be worse.
I also made it to the local onsen. Is it weird that I actually enjoyed the experience of bathing with about 40 other old Japanese men? After scrubbing myself clean in the shower area, I relaxed in the baths (both hot and cold) and sauna. Walking around the onsen, butt naked, gives new meaning to the phrase ''rock out with your cock out.'' Exhausted from sightseeing and bathing, I drank some sake and went to bed.
I'm back in Tokyo for two more days. This country isn't even half as clean as they say it is; I have seen at least three pieces of trash on the ground since I arrived (two remained while one was promptly picked up and pocketed for alter disposal by a passerby). There are no cigarette butts on the ground, and most smokers carry a small purse into which they ask their cigarette and keep the butts until they pass the appropriate receptacle (there are very few trashcans on the street).
Tomorrow is SUMO TIME!!! Who's excited to see some giant men in tiny thongs with cool pony tails grab each other?
With love from the Orient,
Brett
*Picture to come: Me getting some Geisha loving
